I'm doing a brand new garden - the flower bed will be about 25 feet long and 3 feet wide. I've picked out the flowers I want to plant (all perennials) and it looks like it's going to cost around $1500. Does this sound right, or it high/low?
Is it normal for a perennial garden to cost a lot?
That's about right - I own a landscaping business... last season I did a job for a client who had several small beds that probably added up to about that area. They wanted lots of perennial bulbs. The bulbs ranged from $2 to $13 each, and since different plants bloom at different times, it's almost like you have to fill the space 3 times... so it can really add up fast in a large space. But you can really make it look nice and your expenses will not be as much in following years.
Good luck, have fun and enjoy it!!!!!!!!!
Reply:That sound's like way to much for a garden, just remember perennial grow quite a bit in one season. you might want to pyre start some with seed which is allot cheaper to purchase then the actual plant. Pants such as cone plant come in purple,white and yellow.Black eyed Susan, Shasta daises the list goes on and on and they will produce flowers the first year. I would suggest going to your local hardware store and check out the seeds they will tell you on the back when to start them. And I am sure that there will be someone in that department to help you with the materials that you will need. After about 2 years you will be able to divide your perennial or the first year you can save the seeds from them , anyway you will have more plants than you can handle...........Good Luck
Reply:It depends. If you're buying plants that are already fairly well-established, then it will cost more, because you will see them at their mature size almost right away (since they may already be a year or two old when you buy them).
If you want to save some money, you can buy smaller plants, but sometimes they won't do much flowering the first couple of years because they're busy getting their roots established. If you don't mind waiting a few years to get the full effect, buying smaller plants can save a lot of money, especially if (as A.C. Girl said) you wait until the end of the planting season, when nurseries and home improvement stores are marking things down. Also, check for little carts full of rootbound plants, or ones that the store didn't water very well. They're usually marked down significantly, and all they need is to be planted/repotted/watered. You'd be surprised at the really nice plants I've nursed back to health, and at times I've gotten them for around $1!
Reply:If you are doing this yourself, that price sounds high. It also depends on what you are planning on putting into the garden. Keep in mind that perennials love to spread and in just one year will grow hardier and larger. Only buy from a reputable nursery and preferably locally grown plants, they will stand up better during the dormant season.
Reply:my relatives is a landscaper and says you should budget 15.00 per square foot for perennial garden . . this covers soil amendment, plants, and mulch.
Reply:I hope you keep in mind the spacing needs of your garden. I began my garden 70' long by 15' wide with perennials and annuals from seed. I got alot of perennials from neighbors and some (daylillies) from the side of the road(with permission first). The annuals that I planted reseed themselves. The biggest problem with the size of my garden was the control of weeds. It was a labor of love and took around 3 years to be "maintenance free"(LOL)
Reply:You could almost build your own water garden for that cost.
What kind of plants are you putting in it? I could build you a nice one that size for about half that. Who are you having put this in for you?
Reply:Depending on the plants you picked that could be about right but it sounds a little high...think of it like this though...you plant once and your done... it would be easy to spend a couple of hundred dollars EVERY year with annuals... you could try buying different plants or use a mailorder catalog and plant smaller plants, most pernnials grow to full size by the second or third year.
Reply:Depends on so many things, as the other answers have indicated. Have you already got tools and are you doing the labor yourself? $0. Do you have friends with perennials you like and are needing to be divided-- or from which you can root cuttings? $0. Do you have yard clippings/compost with which to amend your dirt? $0. Can you rake leaves/pine straw for mulch to cover the dirt? $0 Also, be sure if you're buying plants that they are right for your zone and conditions--that's a real money waster. Your amount of patience can be a real money saver; smaller is cheaper. Just allow room for growing in the years down the road. Excess space can be filled in the meantime with annuals you can start yourself from seeds from friends. $0.
Reply:I don't know what type of plants you are talking about but it can cost that much for high end stuff. However, $1500 for 25' x 3' is way too much to pay. Maybe you should consult with a local garden club to see if there are any members who can give perennials they are dividing. Many gardeners who have old planting perennials are more than happy to give this stuff away. I gave away a ton of hosta's that I divided up..When I purchased them, they were like $10-$25/plant!
Reply:Awfully high! Where are you buying your plants? Many garden catalogs offer perenials, and don't see how you can spend that much on such a small space--perhaps you are overplanting. Perenials vary in size, use the full plant size as your guide so you don't put too many plants together. Also--see if any friends have plants that can be divided, look at garage sales in early spring, buy small plants at feed and seed stores. I buy perenials for my beds at a local feed and seed, pay from $1 to at most $5 for really nice plants. You can also grow many perenials easily from seed with much success, and save a lot of $$
Reply:That sounds a little hight but a lot of that could be building materials and a lot of my money went into good quality dirt as well. Check with a landscape yard for dirt by the yard instead of bags often they will deliver it also and save a lot of money on individual bags of soil.
Reply:That sounds about right. I am a landscape designer in Toronto and for my clients it works out to $12-$14 per Perennial.
Shrubs are good value and ideally in a bed that long you will want at least some sort of a climber or a couple of shrubs (a broadleaf evergreen or a Sandcherry perhaps?) Also, try saving money by buying less perennials and waiting a year or two then dividing them
Reply:That sounds high, but it is a huge space, and you don't want to skimp - keep in mind, your perennials are a one time cost and if you care for them properly you will reap the benefits of a beautiful garden!
To cut the cost, buy only some of the plants and wait until the end of the season, when most greenhouses have at least 50% off of their plants.
Reply:It sounds very high to me. Does the $1500 include labor or just plants? How many plants do you think you need? I think 1 every 1.5 square feet would be a lot b/c if they live they grow. And then it will be very crowded. 25*3=75 square ft 75/1.5=50 plants If you are talking 1 gallon plants, then $6-7 each would be about the price. 7*50=$350. But if you get 3 gallon plants, they will cost more ($13-17?) and take up more space. Say 1 plant every 3 sq ft if in 3 gallon pots. 17*25=$425.
Of course, you could start the plants from seeds. Or you could root pieces from your friends/ family's plants for almost free. Or you could get divisions of plants....
Reply:it does sound about right .it depends exactly which plants you chose.. it's a large area so will cost a lot to start .if money is no object then jump right in and go for it ..if money is a problem try picking a few you can afford and plant them this year.plant closest to the house or your outdoor living area first for maximum enjoyment.. then next year you can add as much as you can afford ..you may be surprised to know a lot of very nice gardens started like that..perennials cost more to purchase but when established they will last as long as you take care of them..some will need to be mulched some will need to be divided from time to time.. i think you can get the message from that so good luck in your new garden..
Monday, November 16, 2009
How do I clear a grassy area for a garden?
We just bought a place in the country, but it doesn't look like there has been a garden here in recent years. I don't know how to create a nice, clean area for a garden. I would appreciate any suggestions.
How do I clear a grassy area for a garden?
OHH I am so glad you asked! A product called "Preen"
here's a link for the different types they offer.
http://www.preen.com/newpreen/index.jsp
You can get it from most big garden places, I got mine from Home Depot.
I had flowers and was worried about killing them, rock area that was being taken over by some really nasty weeds and grass with big root areas and I was just dog tired of backing my back, I didn't believe that something so great could be so simple ...oohhh and I have pets and that was my biggest worry ...and yes I did try the organic way ...spraying the weeds and grass with vinegar and let the sun get it, it does work but I just had too many poppin' up every other day and some older well established weeds and grass. Sorry but I just can't say enough about this product!!
Good Luck !
Reply:rip the grass out buy soil and plant plants
Reply:NO DIGGING REQUIRED:
Poison the grassed area or use boiled water to scorch the perimeter of the bed and lay black plastic for a week on the grass.
Then build raised beds, starting with wet newspaper, then manure, compost, straw, soil, newspaper, manure, compost, straw, soil, etc. and wet it.
Then, your plants will be VERY happy and you will be able to mow up to the bed and not worry about the grass migrating into the garden! Place edging plants to retain the soil. Use groundcover plants to keep the weeds out. Grow plants and trees that you will enjoy and use, eg. lemon trees, flowering shrubs. Fertilise with chook poo every few months. Use a drip irrigation system, or simply water just the base of the plants. That way you're not helping the weeds and you'll never have to buy poisons.
Reply:get a roto tiller and till the land you intend on gardening. Add some enrichments to the soil and plant away!
Reply:get a rota tiller and go over the area that you want to plant the garden in several times. Then go through and get as much as the grass and rocks out as you can with a rake. Next use the tiller and mix some fertilizer in with the dirt. Then plant your seeds in rows and water until you have what you want.
Good Luck!!!!
Reply:If you are not able to remove the grass by hand I can understand because it's very hard physical work. If you're not in a huge hurry you could use a defoliant and wait for the grass to die or you can cover the area with weed cloth weighed down with stones or bricks. Since the cloth will block all the light the grass will eventually die. This last idea is probably the least toxic and easiest way to clear an area.
.
Reply:Gasoline! If your from England you would call it Petro.
Reply:Buy sprays ti kill weed'
Reply:dig up the grass and then use a rototiller (rent one if you have to, it's way faster and easier than hoeing) on the remaining soil...then plant away!
Reply:Once you have killed, removed or smothered the existing vegetation (see Clearing A Flower Bed), you can begin to work the soil or loosen the soil and prepare the flower bed area for planting flowers. This can be done with a tiller or by hand using a spade and garden fork. If the soil is very compacted or has never been worked, you may want to rent a large, powerful tiller to do the initial passes. Thereafter, a lightweight tiller or a spade should be sufficient. After the first year, you should not need to till the soil again.
Reply:a llalalalalalandsckaper
Reply:Lasagna Gardening-No Tilling
From gardener Arden:
Create a new gardening bed without tilling or pulling up grass and weeds:
Once you have a well defined garden bed, no need to clear it of grass or weeds, just layer about 6 or 8 newspaper sheets or cardboard over the bed area, water the paper or cardboard to the soaking point (this method will eventually smother whatever is growing there).
Over this paper or cardboard, you can build up layers of organic materials by using already made compost from your own pile or bought in bags from a nursery, chopped up leaves, grass clippings, chipped up prunings, produce trimmings, aged manure (not dog or cat), whatever you can gather that will rot. Pile it on as thick as you can and be sure it is kept well moistened as if you are watering a garden each week. This is known as lasagna gardening.
Or you can mix everything together and then pile it on top of the paper or cardboard if you prefer.
If you would like to have a top layer, wood chips can often be found at your city's Parks %26amp; Recreation Dept., or you can check with your local nurseries. This will make a good top dressing to keep moisture in and to keep wind from blowing away your lasagna.
This material will break down and become a rich, loose loam. Keep adding to this each year and you will have a very nice gardening bed.
******************************
And here is another way from gardener Merrybelle:
Lasagna gardening:
Lasagna gardening is simply a short cut to digging and tilling up an area for new beds. I live on a hillside and part of our now yard used to be pasture land , so not only is the land compacted, it's also clay based with wild Bermuda in a goodly portion of it.
To lasagna, you normally spray the grass with a grass/weed killer (I'll get creamed by the environmentalists on this one).
Then you lay down your cardboard/newspapers.
On top of this you put compost, top soil, potting soil, shredded leaves, etc.
You are now ready to plant your beds.
When using newspapers, they need to be thick, that's why I prefer cardboard. It suppresses the greenery underneath while decomposing, thereby enriching the soil. For some reason, the papers/cardboard draw earthworms like crazy, which is also good for aeration of the soil.
You obviously cannot till in your dirt mixture immediately, that's why most people let the topsoil/compost/potting soil/shredded leaves sit for awhile on top of the cardboard/newspaper layers, to give them time to decompose. This is esp. true if you are going to be digging holes for shrubs, roses, anything that required more than a minimum of root cover.
Being the impatient person that I am, I normally plant immediately on top, but then, I'm planting shallow rooted things like lilies, etc.
All of my beds are lasagna'd - ie, layered.
So in a nutshell, lasagna gardening is layer gardening, a quicker way to create new beds, esp. for us older folks who can't double dig, or who have very poor soil.
Reply:pee on the spot u want gone...
Reply:Mark out an area that you want having more than 6 hours of full sun light. Mark out an area that you feel that you can manage. May I suggest an area of about 12 feet by 24 feet for starters.
Buy a gallon of "Round Up" weed and grass killer. Spray down the area that is going to be your garden. This area will not be ready for planting for some 3 to 4 weeks after spraying. In that 3 to 4 weeks span, you are going to go on the internet and do a lot of research on how to condition and prepare your garden soil for growing your veggies.
Come back and ask questions. We'll be glad to help.
Reply:well i'd just rototill the whole damn thing, rake the **** out, and then get some topsoil to go over top of it.
Of course, when your topsoil is new and rich, the vegetables you grow will grow to fantastic perportions, but the vegetables themselves, especially the undergrownd ones won't grow very big at all. When I got some new topsoil, I planted all potatoes, and the plants were ******* HUGE, but the potatoes themselves were no bigger than grapes.
Climbing Shoes
How do I clear a grassy area for a garden?
OHH I am so glad you asked! A product called "Preen"
here's a link for the different types they offer.
http://www.preen.com/newpreen/index.jsp
You can get it from most big garden places, I got mine from Home Depot.
I had flowers and was worried about killing them, rock area that was being taken over by some really nasty weeds and grass with big root areas and I was just dog tired of backing my back, I didn't believe that something so great could be so simple ...oohhh and I have pets and that was my biggest worry ...and yes I did try the organic way ...spraying the weeds and grass with vinegar and let the sun get it, it does work but I just had too many poppin' up every other day and some older well established weeds and grass. Sorry but I just can't say enough about this product!!
Good Luck !
Reply:rip the grass out buy soil and plant plants
Reply:NO DIGGING REQUIRED:
Poison the grassed area or use boiled water to scorch the perimeter of the bed and lay black plastic for a week on the grass.
Then build raised beds, starting with wet newspaper, then manure, compost, straw, soil, newspaper, manure, compost, straw, soil, etc. and wet it.
Then, your plants will be VERY happy and you will be able to mow up to the bed and not worry about the grass migrating into the garden! Place edging plants to retain the soil. Use groundcover plants to keep the weeds out. Grow plants and trees that you will enjoy and use, eg. lemon trees, flowering shrubs. Fertilise with chook poo every few months. Use a drip irrigation system, or simply water just the base of the plants. That way you're not helping the weeds and you'll never have to buy poisons.
Reply:get a roto tiller and till the land you intend on gardening. Add some enrichments to the soil and plant away!
Reply:get a rota tiller and go over the area that you want to plant the garden in several times. Then go through and get as much as the grass and rocks out as you can with a rake. Next use the tiller and mix some fertilizer in with the dirt. Then plant your seeds in rows and water until you have what you want.
Good Luck!!!!
Reply:If you are not able to remove the grass by hand I can understand because it's very hard physical work. If you're not in a huge hurry you could use a defoliant and wait for the grass to die or you can cover the area with weed cloth weighed down with stones or bricks. Since the cloth will block all the light the grass will eventually die. This last idea is probably the least toxic and easiest way to clear an area.
.
Reply:Gasoline! If your from England you would call it Petro.
Reply:Buy sprays ti kill weed'
Reply:dig up the grass and then use a rototiller (rent one if you have to, it's way faster and easier than hoeing) on the remaining soil...then plant away!
Reply:Once you have killed, removed or smothered the existing vegetation (see Clearing A Flower Bed), you can begin to work the soil or loosen the soil and prepare the flower bed area for planting flowers. This can be done with a tiller or by hand using a spade and garden fork. If the soil is very compacted or has never been worked, you may want to rent a large, powerful tiller to do the initial passes. Thereafter, a lightweight tiller or a spade should be sufficient. After the first year, you should not need to till the soil again.
Reply:a llalalalalalandsckaper
Reply:Lasagna Gardening-No Tilling
From gardener Arden:
Create a new gardening bed without tilling or pulling up grass and weeds:
Once you have a well defined garden bed, no need to clear it of grass or weeds, just layer about 6 or 8 newspaper sheets or cardboard over the bed area, water the paper or cardboard to the soaking point (this method will eventually smother whatever is growing there).
Over this paper or cardboard, you can build up layers of organic materials by using already made compost from your own pile or bought in bags from a nursery, chopped up leaves, grass clippings, chipped up prunings, produce trimmings, aged manure (not dog or cat), whatever you can gather that will rot. Pile it on as thick as you can and be sure it is kept well moistened as if you are watering a garden each week. This is known as lasagna gardening.
Or you can mix everything together and then pile it on top of the paper or cardboard if you prefer.
If you would like to have a top layer, wood chips can often be found at your city's Parks %26amp; Recreation Dept., or you can check with your local nurseries. This will make a good top dressing to keep moisture in and to keep wind from blowing away your lasagna.
This material will break down and become a rich, loose loam. Keep adding to this each year and you will have a very nice gardening bed.
******************************
And here is another way from gardener Merrybelle:
Lasagna gardening:
Lasagna gardening is simply a short cut to digging and tilling up an area for new beds. I live on a hillside and part of our now yard used to be pasture land , so not only is the land compacted, it's also clay based with wild Bermuda in a goodly portion of it.
To lasagna, you normally spray the grass with a grass/weed killer (I'll get creamed by the environmentalists on this one).
Then you lay down your cardboard/newspapers.
On top of this you put compost, top soil, potting soil, shredded leaves, etc.
You are now ready to plant your beds.
When using newspapers, they need to be thick, that's why I prefer cardboard. It suppresses the greenery underneath while decomposing, thereby enriching the soil. For some reason, the papers/cardboard draw earthworms like crazy, which is also good for aeration of the soil.
You obviously cannot till in your dirt mixture immediately, that's why most people let the topsoil/compost/potting soil/shredded leaves sit for awhile on top of the cardboard/newspaper layers, to give them time to decompose. This is esp. true if you are going to be digging holes for shrubs, roses, anything that required more than a minimum of root cover.
Being the impatient person that I am, I normally plant immediately on top, but then, I'm planting shallow rooted things like lilies, etc.
All of my beds are lasagna'd - ie, layered.
So in a nutshell, lasagna gardening is layer gardening, a quicker way to create new beds, esp. for us older folks who can't double dig, or who have very poor soil.
Reply:pee on the spot u want gone...
Reply:Mark out an area that you want having more than 6 hours of full sun light. Mark out an area that you feel that you can manage. May I suggest an area of about 12 feet by 24 feet for starters.
Buy a gallon of "Round Up" weed and grass killer. Spray down the area that is going to be your garden. This area will not be ready for planting for some 3 to 4 weeks after spraying. In that 3 to 4 weeks span, you are going to go on the internet and do a lot of research on how to condition and prepare your garden soil for growing your veggies.
Come back and ask questions. We'll be glad to help.
Reply:well i'd just rototill the whole damn thing, rake the **** out, and then get some topsoil to go over top of it.
Of course, when your topsoil is new and rich, the vegetables you grow will grow to fantastic perportions, but the vegetables themselves, especially the undergrownd ones won't grow very big at all. When I got some new topsoil, I planted all potatoes, and the plants were ******* HUGE, but the potatoes themselves were no bigger than grapes.
Climbing Shoes
Where to Find Garden Plans or Customize Myself Online?
Im looking to do some garden landscaping %26amp; in need of some websites that I can maximize every bit of space that I have.
Im start'g on the side yard 1st %26amp; have put in my 2 trees %26amp; some sod %26amp; put in a drip system. But now I need to frame the area around the sod %26amp; my trees %26amp; in between the 2 (roughly 26'x22').
But not sure where to put the flowers. I intend to use a total of 30+ varieties as this will be my Master Garden.
Is there a website that will let me create this on my own by color? Im only using shades of Blues, Pinks, %26amp; Purples and White and a Purple Alyssum as a ground cover.
Or any websites that could/would show me layouts that have been sketched %26amp; used to give me some ideas?
Im think'g of mixing a Mediterranean Garden, a Country Garden, %26amp; Arizona Native Garden for my Master Garden.
Where to Find Garden Plans or Customize Myself Online?
WTF every happend to paper and pencil -
Draw the thing out - map out your own paths, plants and features - don't limit yourself to what's in a web tool.
+ Don't forget to draw the walls and do a vertical plan for climbers, creepers, bamboos and cover - think colour too.
You need books -
Get the pots and features you want and arrange them in the space - real space - work out paths and bushes - then draw it up.
Reply:GO TO HIGHCOUNTRYGARDENS.COM THIS SITE SPECIALIZES IN XERIC PLANT(DO NOT NEED MUCH WATER) MOST MEDITERRANEAN PLANTS ARE XERIC IN NATURE. HIGH COUNTRY HAS PRE PLANNED GARDEN KIT YOU CAN PURCHASE TO PLANT YOURSELF. PERFECT STUFF FOR HOT AZ CLIMATE
Reply:try bhg.com (better homes %26amp; gardens). they have a planning tool and lots of garden plans.
Reply:plantbynumber.com is a good one it shows item together and gives you ideas. Good Luck.
Reply:yes,www. Kulak.com. they are up near Schenectady,NY
Im start'g on the side yard 1st %26amp; have put in my 2 trees %26amp; some sod %26amp; put in a drip system. But now I need to frame the area around the sod %26amp; my trees %26amp; in between the 2 (roughly 26'x22').
But not sure where to put the flowers. I intend to use a total of 30+ varieties as this will be my Master Garden.
Is there a website that will let me create this on my own by color? Im only using shades of Blues, Pinks, %26amp; Purples and White and a Purple Alyssum as a ground cover.
Or any websites that could/would show me layouts that have been sketched %26amp; used to give me some ideas?
Im think'g of mixing a Mediterranean Garden, a Country Garden, %26amp; Arizona Native Garden for my Master Garden.
Where to Find Garden Plans or Customize Myself Online?
WTF every happend to paper and pencil -
Draw the thing out - map out your own paths, plants and features - don't limit yourself to what's in a web tool.
+ Don't forget to draw the walls and do a vertical plan for climbers, creepers, bamboos and cover - think colour too.
You need books -
Get the pots and features you want and arrange them in the space - real space - work out paths and bushes - then draw it up.
Reply:GO TO HIGHCOUNTRYGARDENS.COM THIS SITE SPECIALIZES IN XERIC PLANT(DO NOT NEED MUCH WATER) MOST MEDITERRANEAN PLANTS ARE XERIC IN NATURE. HIGH COUNTRY HAS PRE PLANNED GARDEN KIT YOU CAN PURCHASE TO PLANT YOURSELF. PERFECT STUFF FOR HOT AZ CLIMATE
Reply:try bhg.com (better homes %26amp; gardens). they have a planning tool and lots of garden plans.
Reply:plantbynumber.com is a good one it shows item together and gives you ideas. Good Luck.
Reply:yes,www. Kulak.com. they are up near Schenectady,NY
Where can I find landscaping rocks to line a garden, in Colorado?
I want to line my garden with some nice, flat red rocks, sort of like what you would find on the flatirons in Boulder. However, when I go to home depot, they are $5/ piece. I'm hoping to line the garden for less than $25, any ideas?
Where can I find landscaping rocks to line a garden, in Colorado?
Jeez, they're not called the Rocky Mountains for nothing, if you need help finding some, get in touch, I've got Park Ranger friend in Estes Park. RScott
Reply:check Craigslist people are always trying to get rid of rock
Reply:There are a couple of flagstone quarries in Lyons. They might have pieces that are too small to put out on the regular market.but would be big enough to use for your garden.
Where can I find landscaping rocks to line a garden, in Colorado?
Jeez, they're not called the Rocky Mountains for nothing, if you need help finding some, get in touch, I've got Park Ranger friend in Estes Park. RScott
Reply:check Craigslist people are always trying to get rid of rock
Reply:There are a couple of flagstone quarries in Lyons. They might have pieces that are too small to put out on the regular market.but would be big enough to use for your garden.
How can I make my garden more cat friendly?
My 2 cats are spending most of their time in my neighbours gardens, my garden is really small and I have planted shrubs, is there anything else that I can do to make them stay in their garden?!
How can I make my garden more cat friendly?
Provide them with accesiable shady areas for when it's too hot, maybe put a bowl of water and crunchies out there for them too. Those are all that I can think of right now. Sorry I can't be more help;.
Hope this helps.
Reply:Swings, paddling pool, no - best of all, a sand pit, that gets them every time.
Reply:If your shrubs have anything citrus such as orange in them, you haven't got a chance. Citrus keeps cats away, they can't stand it. You use this if you want them to stop peeing/spraying everywhere.
Reply:Well, have you tried catnip. Cats love it and it is very easy to grow from seed. They also like grasses that are tall and have seeds to play with. You could also put toys hidden in the garden.
Good Luck
Reply:Introduce some mice.
Reply:A flat flagstone in the center where the sun can shine on it, that's a good draw for cats.
Catnip.
Bushes that are bushy above but allow open room underneath for them to lay out of sight.
Reply:Try and find out from your neighbours what they have in their garden that may be more attractive to your cats and plant some to deter them from hoping the fence where the grass normally isn't greener lol
Reply:you can plant cat grass and put out fun things for them to play with and eat. check out ur neighbors garden and see what the cats seem to be most interested in then plant some of that in your own garden. If you do plant catnip besure they dont eat to much. the cats can become drunk from too much catnip. we had that happen twice and its not fun for you or the cat
Reply:onions are poionous to cats!!! you can plant catnip and tall grass in your garden.
Reply:you can get a bird house to keep them entertained and butter flie flowers and a WHOLE BUNCH OF CAT NIP PLANTS THAT GROW IN THE GROUND. you can get them at almost any pet store.
Reply:fILL IT WITH MICE!!!!!!!! no grow a katnip plant. or grow sum cat grass
Reply:If you want them to stay in your yard by a catnip plant. They will definatly want to stay in your garden then.... %26gt;^.^%26lt;
Here's a link if your thinking of growing some:
http://www.gardenersnet.com/herbs/catnip...
Reply:catnip
How can I make my garden more cat friendly?
Provide them with accesiable shady areas for when it's too hot, maybe put a bowl of water and crunchies out there for them too. Those are all that I can think of right now. Sorry I can't be more help;.
Hope this helps.
Reply:Swings, paddling pool, no - best of all, a sand pit, that gets them every time.
Reply:If your shrubs have anything citrus such as orange in them, you haven't got a chance. Citrus keeps cats away, they can't stand it. You use this if you want them to stop peeing/spraying everywhere.
Reply:Well, have you tried catnip. Cats love it and it is very easy to grow from seed. They also like grasses that are tall and have seeds to play with. You could also put toys hidden in the garden.
Good Luck
Reply:Introduce some mice.
Reply:A flat flagstone in the center where the sun can shine on it, that's a good draw for cats.
Catnip.
Bushes that are bushy above but allow open room underneath for them to lay out of sight.
Reply:Try and find out from your neighbours what they have in their garden that may be more attractive to your cats and plant some to deter them from hoping the fence where the grass normally isn't greener lol
Reply:you can plant cat grass and put out fun things for them to play with and eat. check out ur neighbors garden and see what the cats seem to be most interested in then plant some of that in your own garden. If you do plant catnip besure they dont eat to much. the cats can become drunk from too much catnip. we had that happen twice and its not fun for you or the cat
Reply:onions are poionous to cats!!! you can plant catnip and tall grass in your garden.
Reply:you can get a bird house to keep them entertained and butter flie flowers and a WHOLE BUNCH OF CAT NIP PLANTS THAT GROW IN THE GROUND. you can get them at almost any pet store.
Reply:fILL IT WITH MICE!!!!!!!! no grow a katnip plant. or grow sum cat grass
Reply:If you want them to stay in your yard by a catnip plant. They will definatly want to stay in your garden then.... %26gt;^.^%26lt;
Here's a link if your thinking of growing some:
http://www.gardenersnet.com/herbs/catnip...
Reply:catnip
How can I keep people from stealing from my garden?
I live in area where people are known to steal from peoples garden, unlike others who stopped gardening, I would like to plant this year.
I also have limited yard space to work with.
How can I keep people from stealing from my garden?
Barking dog.
Reply:One old trick is when the fruit looks good to eat put up a spray sign. You can buy them or make one. The one that works is "Restricted use pesticide" Danger Pesticides, Peligro Pesticidas, Keep out, No Entre
They cost between 2 and 5 dollars to buy.
Don't leave the sign up every day or people will ignore it.
Reply:Put up a privacy fence.That way no one can see your garden.You could try to make friends with the folks around you and share the leftovers.
Reply:Electric fence
Reply:boobie traps!
Reply:start planting mines underground.
Reply:Plant something like squash that makes a lot and give it to your neighbors. Share what you have even if its not much at all. Talk to people who walk by while you are gardening. Give it a year or so. People don't steal from their friends so be their friend.
Friendship and talk brings a sense of community instead of distrust and bickering.
I get more pleasure from sharing my produce with friends than actully eatting it all myself. Nobody in my area would steal becasue all they have to a do is ask.
Downtown in summer you must lock your car doors. If you don't somebody will fill it with squash!
Reply:Put up a motion sensor light. When they step into the garden, it will turn on and possibly scare them. You could also do a smaller chain length fence and hook it to an electric wire and when you are not in view, turn it on. They will get shocked when they try to enter. Just a little one, and put up a sign as a warning.
Reply:Put a fence around it. Actually, I don't think there is anything you can do. If someone wants something bad enough...they will get it.
Where do you live....my neighbors and I all have gardens. No one has ever stole from any of us.
Reply:How about a sign that says, "Beware of Snakes."
Reply:If you can get some "fish fertilizer" put it on the ground around the perimeter of your garden. It has a very offensive smell and may stop people from raiding you garden
Reply:try putting lion dung out there
if you thought a lion was out there would you go out there
good luck
Reply:Electrified fence... 12-gauge shotgun ... and a pit bull
Reply:keep a shotgun and fire it whenever someone walks by.
Reply:get a laser alarm system so if anyone pasts the laser it makes noises. or put cameras
Reply:Put a sign out , saying . { warning no trespassing }. {There are certain veggies that been treated just for you .}
dress shoes
I also have limited yard space to work with.
How can I keep people from stealing from my garden?
Barking dog.
Reply:One old trick is when the fruit looks good to eat put up a spray sign. You can buy them or make one. The one that works is "Restricted use pesticide" Danger Pesticides, Peligro Pesticidas, Keep out, No Entre
They cost between 2 and 5 dollars to buy.
Don't leave the sign up every day or people will ignore it.
Reply:Put up a privacy fence.That way no one can see your garden.You could try to make friends with the folks around you and share the leftovers.
Reply:Electric fence
Reply:boobie traps!
Reply:start planting mines underground.
Reply:Plant something like squash that makes a lot and give it to your neighbors. Share what you have even if its not much at all. Talk to people who walk by while you are gardening. Give it a year or so. People don't steal from their friends so be their friend.
Friendship and talk brings a sense of community instead of distrust and bickering.
I get more pleasure from sharing my produce with friends than actully eatting it all myself. Nobody in my area would steal becasue all they have to a do is ask.
Downtown in summer you must lock your car doors. If you don't somebody will fill it with squash!
Reply:Put up a motion sensor light. When they step into the garden, it will turn on and possibly scare them. You could also do a smaller chain length fence and hook it to an electric wire and when you are not in view, turn it on. They will get shocked when they try to enter. Just a little one, and put up a sign as a warning.
Reply:Put a fence around it. Actually, I don't think there is anything you can do. If someone wants something bad enough...they will get it.
Where do you live....my neighbors and I all have gardens. No one has ever stole from any of us.
Reply:How about a sign that says, "Beware of Snakes."
Reply:If you can get some "fish fertilizer" put it on the ground around the perimeter of your garden. It has a very offensive smell and may stop people from raiding you garden
Reply:try putting lion dung out there
if you thought a lion was out there would you go out there
good luck
Reply:Electrified fence... 12-gauge shotgun ... and a pit bull
Reply:keep a shotgun and fire it whenever someone walks by.
Reply:get a laser alarm system so if anyone pasts the laser it makes noises. or put cameras
Reply:Put a sign out , saying . { warning no trespassing }. {There are certain veggies that been treated just for you .}
dress shoes
How do you start a vegetable garden?
I'd like to start a small, backyard vegetable garden. What's the best way to get started?
How do you start a vegetable garden?
1. Make standing appointments with a really good chiropractor
Reply:Start with having animal remains or manure, dig the fallow ground and mix the soil with the manure.
Keep the ground wet and too wet.
This is the time to get your seedlings depending on the plant.
By this time your soil is made fertile by the application of manure.
Reply:I always found square foot gardening the best. It prevents mole and gopher problems and the plants always seem to grow better. Build some 4' square boxes and attach chicken wire to the bottom. Cover the inside bottom with landscaping cloth and fill the boxes with good composted soil. Divide the boxes into 12" squares using wire strung across the top and plant different seeds in each square. Good luck!
http://www.squarefootgardening.com/
Reply:First pick a nice sunny location in your yard. Then go buy some grass and weed killer and spray the location. It works in like 2 to 3 days. You want that grass dead or you are going to have nothing but problems !! Till up the ground and through in some cow manure from the store and bone meal too if you can find it. Plant and enjoy!!
Reply:All the ideas are good but you should learn a little and think about what you really want to grow first.
Reply:pick a spot, till it up; plant......weed water and fertilize ...and watch them grow....then enjoy!
Reply:It's quite simple. Ideally, you need a space that gets full sun and is close to a tap for water. If the space you're looking at is filled with lawn, dig up part of the lawn and surround the perimeter with bricks or timber to make a border to keep the grass from invading. You may need to spray this perimeter with weedicide occasionally to keep the grass at bay.
Once you've cleared a space for your patch, you need to improve the soil. Adding compost is a good way to do this, but if you don't have any on hand, adding a few bought elements can help condition the soil. 'Blood and bone' or ground bonemeal is a fantastic soil improver. A bag or two of sheep manure dug in well will also do wonders.
When you've dug everything in a bit, rake over the soil to flatten it in preparation for planting.
There are two ways to plant vegetables - by seed, or by seedlings. Pretty much everything can be grown from seed, and although you will have to wait marginally longer to see veges in your garden while they germinate, this is the cheapest and most cost-effective way to grow vegetables. You get lots of plants, and they often grow more strongly than seedlings. A pack of seeds usually costs a few dollars, but you usually don't use them all in one hit, and you can get many many plants from one packet of seed.
Seedlings can, however, be purchased from nursuries, as well as most supermarkets, department stores and hardware/garden stores. They cost a few dollars for a punnet of 6, 8 or 10 plants.
Follow the planting instructions on the seed packet or on the back of the carboard label stuck in the seedling punnet.
Water them in well. For seeds, it's a good idea to hold of fertilizing until after they've germinated. For seedlings, it's wise to give them a weak solution of liquid fertilizer to get them on their way. Seasol or Seaweed concentrate is perfect for this. A weak tea of Powerfeed, Fish emulsion, Maxicrop, or liquid aged poultry manure is also ideal.
During the growing period, I recommend fertilizing every week with a weak tea of Seasol, and every 2 weeks with some liquid aged poultry manure. The Seasol will provide all the trace elements your plants need, while the poultry manure will make your plants go "BOOM" and flourish with life.
Every month or so it's a good idea to sprinkle some blood %26amp; bone around and water in well. This will also have a "BOOM" factor.
Once your seeds have germinated and the seedlings are well on their way, I recommend mulching with some lucerne hay. This can be bought, baled, and for much cheaper if it is spoiled - i.e. not suitable for livestock feed as it has gone mouldy or slightly rotten. Once spread it won't look as rotten. And at any rate, rotting is better - it will eventually break down in to your soil and improve it for your future crops.
I garden in this way and I have very few pests and diseases on my plants. It is completely organic, and very inexpensive.
If you have problems with snails and slugs (like most of us!), beer baits can be made. More effective are organic pet-safe snail pellets that are on the market nowadays, which I've found to be quite effective.
A great book to invest in if you're interested in vegetable gardening is "Organic Gardening" by Peter Bennet. Although it deals in most part with gardening in Australia and New Zealand, the general methods can be adapted to anywhere in the world, and it does a fantastic job in explaining the general concepts of gardening in a way that is safe, easy, affordable, responsible, and - most importantly - fun and rewarding!!
Good luck! Rest assured - once you start, the gardening bug will get you and you won't be able to stop! :-D
How do you start a vegetable garden?
1. Make standing appointments with a really good chiropractor
Reply:Start with having animal remains or manure, dig the fallow ground and mix the soil with the manure.
Keep the ground wet and too wet.
This is the time to get your seedlings depending on the plant.
By this time your soil is made fertile by the application of manure.
Reply:I always found square foot gardening the best. It prevents mole and gopher problems and the plants always seem to grow better. Build some 4' square boxes and attach chicken wire to the bottom. Cover the inside bottom with landscaping cloth and fill the boxes with good composted soil. Divide the boxes into 12" squares using wire strung across the top and plant different seeds in each square. Good luck!
http://www.squarefootgardening.com/
Reply:First pick a nice sunny location in your yard. Then go buy some grass and weed killer and spray the location. It works in like 2 to 3 days. You want that grass dead or you are going to have nothing but problems !! Till up the ground and through in some cow manure from the store and bone meal too if you can find it. Plant and enjoy!!
Reply:All the ideas are good but you should learn a little and think about what you really want to grow first.
Reply:pick a spot, till it up; plant......weed water and fertilize ...and watch them grow....then enjoy!
Reply:It's quite simple. Ideally, you need a space that gets full sun and is close to a tap for water. If the space you're looking at is filled with lawn, dig up part of the lawn and surround the perimeter with bricks or timber to make a border to keep the grass from invading. You may need to spray this perimeter with weedicide occasionally to keep the grass at bay.
Once you've cleared a space for your patch, you need to improve the soil. Adding compost is a good way to do this, but if you don't have any on hand, adding a few bought elements can help condition the soil. 'Blood and bone' or ground bonemeal is a fantastic soil improver. A bag or two of sheep manure dug in well will also do wonders.
When you've dug everything in a bit, rake over the soil to flatten it in preparation for planting.
There are two ways to plant vegetables - by seed, or by seedlings. Pretty much everything can be grown from seed, and although you will have to wait marginally longer to see veges in your garden while they germinate, this is the cheapest and most cost-effective way to grow vegetables. You get lots of plants, and they often grow more strongly than seedlings. A pack of seeds usually costs a few dollars, but you usually don't use them all in one hit, and you can get many many plants from one packet of seed.
Seedlings can, however, be purchased from nursuries, as well as most supermarkets, department stores and hardware/garden stores. They cost a few dollars for a punnet of 6, 8 or 10 plants.
Follow the planting instructions on the seed packet or on the back of the carboard label stuck in the seedling punnet.
Water them in well. For seeds, it's a good idea to hold of fertilizing until after they've germinated. For seedlings, it's wise to give them a weak solution of liquid fertilizer to get them on their way. Seasol or Seaweed concentrate is perfect for this. A weak tea of Powerfeed, Fish emulsion, Maxicrop, or liquid aged poultry manure is also ideal.
During the growing period, I recommend fertilizing every week with a weak tea of Seasol, and every 2 weeks with some liquid aged poultry manure. The Seasol will provide all the trace elements your plants need, while the poultry manure will make your plants go "BOOM" and flourish with life.
Every month or so it's a good idea to sprinkle some blood %26amp; bone around and water in well. This will also have a "BOOM" factor.
Once your seeds have germinated and the seedlings are well on their way, I recommend mulching with some lucerne hay. This can be bought, baled, and for much cheaper if it is spoiled - i.e. not suitable for livestock feed as it has gone mouldy or slightly rotten. Once spread it won't look as rotten. And at any rate, rotting is better - it will eventually break down in to your soil and improve it for your future crops.
I garden in this way and I have very few pests and diseases on my plants. It is completely organic, and very inexpensive.
If you have problems with snails and slugs (like most of us!), beer baits can be made. More effective are organic pet-safe snail pellets that are on the market nowadays, which I've found to be quite effective.
A great book to invest in if you're interested in vegetable gardening is "Organic Gardening" by Peter Bennet. Although it deals in most part with gardening in Australia and New Zealand, the general methods can be adapted to anywhere in the world, and it does a fantastic job in explaining the general concepts of gardening in a way that is safe, easy, affordable, responsible, and - most importantly - fun and rewarding!!
Good luck! Rest assured - once you start, the gardening bug will get you and you won't be able to stop! :-D
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